1972 Triumph GT6 Mk3 - Not for sale anymore....
'cos I am fixing it myself.
There is not too much structure to this page as it
started off as a sales tool for the car. Enjoy the
stories; enjoy the pictures.
Spring
2008
This is a Triumph GT6 with about 80,600 miles on the
Odometer -With
boxes of new parts for restoration..
VIN: KF3660L
A new clutch and a rebuilt gearbox were fitted
several hundred miles ago (about 16 years ago!).
Watch this space as I do some checking in response
to people's request.
To Do: Turn engine over manually.
Done (evening sept 11th). I removed the plugs and
could turn the engine easily via the engine fan.
I have no doubt that the engine will start - given
the right coaxing. Of course, if nobody buys the car,
then I am committed to renovating the vehicle myself.
Then it will be running by next spring - if not sooner.
This would be my fifth
Truimph renovation..... Two Vitesses, and two TR4s (a
feature of a video in the Triumph Club Of Toronto's
video collection).
I had a question about the storage. It was stored in
a town-house garage, so the temperature & humidity
would be reasonably stable. The car was rolled
ocassionally and oir was squirted into the cylinders.
Each cylinder does suck and blow (on my finger anyway
as I turn the engine). The vehicle was a running
vehicle when it was stored.
With the aid of a new battery, some coaxing, some
fiddling with the points, I got the engine started. It
runs well except it pours water out of a hole from an
expansion plug in the head. I filled the clutch
hydraulic system, so that appears to be functional now.
The brake system level was OK.
May 2008: I have rebuilt the front suspension and
have dismantled the rear suspension. I had a major
problem with the rear lower wishbone; the connecting
bolt had seized inside the vertical arm. No amount of
heat and "percussion" adjustment could free the
bolt.
So here is what I
did:
July 2008: Now I am getting somewhere; all the
suspension is done and I replaced some of the hydraulic
and fuel lines which were corroded. Then I find the
clutch is stuck. This M.G.
site gave me some solutions. So I jacked up the
rear of the car, started the engine in gear an stomped
on the brakes. So I broke the last piece of hydraulic
pipe I had not already replaced. Never mind, The
hand-brake did the job so I drove the car around the
court as a victory lap. See my youtube
submission for the exciting video.
I locally sourced the hydraulic piping. Typically
they are male-male connections; so with female-female
unions I got the whole rear brake system replaced. US
thread is interchangable with British.
Anthony P. e-mailed me after reading this page and
warned me that the ignition switch in in a position
where it could (and did to Anthony) inflict serious
knee injury in the case of an accident. So my mext task
is to reposition the ignition switch.
September 2008:
Have not moved the ignition switch - other
priorities in the household... I have scraped the
plaster of the front of the roof to reveal:
November 2009:
Not much done in the last year, but it is in the
paint shop.
May 2010:
Still in the paint shop.... but they are working on
it....
May 2011:
Still in the paint shop.... but they are working on
it.... I have now moved to a condo, and hence no
working garage...
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Well, what is a mess.
There is a "n", or "u" form beam on the
inside of that - which is solid. I removed
(well, cut out) the ceiling material to allow
better access.
My trusted autobody
shop is looking after that problem.
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Call me at (905)272-2222,
or E-mail me bobcar@mybest.net
Tel: (905)272-2222 Cell: (416)802-8175 E-Mail: bobcar@mybest.net
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